• Top lodging and dining picks for every budget • Top attractions from Leonardo"s Last Supper to the Duomo, Italy"s largest Gothic structure • Shopping tips for flagship fashion boutiques and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II arcade • Best spots for osso buco alla milanese, risotto with saffron, and polenta pasticciata • Must-see Milanese architecture, from Renaissance palazzi to art nouveau treasures • After dark: trattorias and bars in bohemian Brera, opera at La Scala, and more