Notes of Travel - Volume II.
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We all left London on Sunday morning, between ten and eleven, from the Waterloo station, and arrived in Southampton about two, without meeting with anything very remarkable on the way. We put up at Chapples Castle Hotel, which is one of the class styled commercial, and, though respectable, not such a one as the nobility and gentry usually frequent. I saw little difference in the accommodation, except that young women attended us instead of men, - a pleasant change. It was a showery day, but Julian and 1 walked out to see the shore and the town and the docks, and, if possible, the ship in which Sophia was to sail. The most noteworthy object was the remains of an old castle, near the water-side the square, gray, weed-grown, weird keep of which shows some modern chimney- pots above its d battlements, while remaining portions of the fortress are made to seem as one of the walls for coal depots, and perhaps for small dwellings. The English characteristically patch new things October into old things in this manner, materially, legally, constitutionally, and morally. Walking along the pier, we observed some pieces of ordnance, one of which was a large brass cannon of Henry VIil.s time, about twelve feet long, and very finely made. The bay of Southampton presents a pleasant prospect, and I believe it is the great rendezvous of the yacht club. Old and young seafaring people were strolling about, and loung- ing at corners, just as they do on Sunday afternoons in the minor seaports of America. From the shore we went up into the town, which is handsome, and of a cheerful aspect, with streets generally wide and well paved, - a cleanly town, not smoke-begrimed, The houses, if not modern, are, at least with few exceptions, new fronted. We saw one relic of antiquity, - a fine medieval gateway across the principal street, much more elevated than the gates of Chester, with battlements at the top, and a spacious apartment over the great arch for the passage of carriages, and the smaller one on each side for foot-passengers. There were two statues in armor or antique costume on the hither side of the gateway, and two old paint- ings on the other. This, so far as I know, is the only remnant of the old wall of Southampton. On Monday the morning was bright, alternating with a little showeriness. Una, Julian, and I went into the town to do some shopping before the steamer should sail and a little after twelve we drove down to the dock. The madeira is a pleasant-looking ship enough, not very large, but accommodating, I believe, about seventy passengers. We looked at my wifes little stateroom, with its three berths for herself and the two children and then sat down in the saloon, and afterwards on deck, to spend the irksome and dreary hour or two before parting, Many of the passengers seemed to be Portuguese, undersized, dark, rnustachiocd people, smoking cigars. John Bull was fairly represehted too. . . . Uha was cheerful, and Robert seemed anxious to get off. Poor Fanny was altogether cast down, and shed tears, either from regret at leaving her native land, or dread of seasickness, or general despondency, being a person of no spring of spirits...