Most miasmic of cities. Best museums and galleries. Ordered and chaotic. Best sights. Old fashioned ceremonial. Where to eat, drink and sleep. Ultra-modern, wealthy and squalid. Crown jewels. Fabulous Bond Street. Hip hotels and cosy B & Bs. Political pragmatism and creative chaos. Kid"s stuff. The river. St Paul"s Cathedral. Gay Pride. The Tower. The Gherkin. The Eye. Europe"s biggest street carnival...