Buried in deep valleys, there are citadels of ochre earth. Near the sea, there are white chalked casbahs, and vast tranquil palm-gardens. Deserts of coloured sands run into soot black mountains. Pungent and bustling souks offer spices and potions to ward off malevolent spirits. Slender arched doorways open out into darkened alleys. Scented mint tea is served in pattern-draped tents. The sky is as clear as ever over the Sahara. This is the Moroccan South, a legendary land, sumptuous and austere.