Unravels the big island’s stormy history and complex myths – takes you to the high drama of Etna’s free firework displays and serene far-flung islands in the cleanest seas in Italy – reveals the fantastic architecture of Syracuse on the southeast coast and the ancient sites of Tindari, Himera and Solunto dotted along the Tyrrhenian coast – seeks out the souks of old Palermo and the temples of Agrigento – leads you to the best plate of swordfish involtini on Lipari and the finest wine in Marsala