Most people think they have Flanders – the northern half of Belgium – figured out: beer, chocolate and the EU. Once labeled ‘boring’, the region is now being radically reappraised. Emma Thomson introduces travelers not only to the World Heritage Sites of Brussels’ Grand Place or Bruges’ romantic canals, but also to snug off-the-beaten-track spots, like the bewitched village of Laarne, and Geraardsbergen – the real home of Manneken-Pis. Flanders has something for everyone: the business tourist; the wildlife and outdoor enthusiast; the traveler wanting to eke out villages; and the visitor who fancies a bit of luxury and pampering.