What to see and do if you can"t stay long · Paradors, hotels, resorts, and inns for every budget · Wonderful dining--conch fritters on a veranda, nouvelle Caribbean fare in a hacienda, asopao in a bistro, and more · Where to hike, swim, sail, scuba, snorkel, golf · The best of old San Juan, and excursions to Culebra and Vieques · The hippest spots for music and dancing · Special feature--detailed maps locating dining and lodging