From the Wailing Wall to the Dome of the Rock to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem is an awe-inspiring place, a city steeped in history and sacred to three religions. But, as Arlynn Nellhaus explains in this one-of-a-kind traveler"s guide, it is also a vibrant contemporary metropolis, an urban center with its own rhythms, customs, and special places. Nellhaus, an American who has lived in Jerusalem for more than a decade, offers a treasure trove of up-to-date information on itineraries, accommodations, restaurants, and historical sites.