Discover SicilyStand crater"s-edge and gaze at the river of fire in Etna"s Valle del BoveGet serious about Mediterranean architecture with classical temples and bijou Byzantine chapelsHaggle hard and eat copiously at the island"s raucous markets and rustic restaurantsMake like the movie stars with volcanic mud packs and seawater Jacuzzis in the AeoliansIn This GuideLocals tell it how it is, from anti-Mafia campaigners to traditional chocolatiersGet off the beaten track with competition-beating information on volcano treks and rural residencesDon"t just take our word for it - see what travelers are saying at lonelyplanet.com