It"s time for panna cotta to get its due as a dessert classic. An exquisitely silky custard, panna cotta is at its most basic a confluence of cream, gelatin and sugar, and a short list of other ingredients that lend it flavor. Molded in ramekins--or more simply set and served in glassware or cups--it has both a homey provenance and refined austerity, making it an ideal partner for a wide range of sumptuous trimmings from bittersweet chocolate to balsamic strawberries to Cabernet caramel sauce. Yet despite its luxurious texture and chic presentation, panna cotta is one of the easiest desserts to prepare: soften some gelatin, warm some cream and sugar, combine the two, and the cooking is done. It can be made up to a day ahead, too, making it as ideal for an haute cuisine supper party as for the close of a cozy weeknight meal. Come serving time, simply unmold and garnish--that"s it. If the crowd is large, recipes are easily doubled or tripled; if the occasion is intimate,...