For nearly 35 years Le Gavroche has been one of the finest restaurants in London, serving exquisitely balanced food in the classic French tradition. Founded by Michel and Albert Roux, and now run by chef Michel Roux Jr., its pre-eminence is celebrated in Le Gavroche Cookbook, a superb collection of 200 dishes from the restaurant"s recipe books. The book is organized seasonally, with an emphasis on the freshest and finest ingredients (if you"re going to try to cook this type of food, you have to buy the best--there"s no point otherwise). Gulls" Eggs with Caviar, Roast Black Leg Chicken with Fresh Pasta, Foie Gras and Truffles, from the Spring section; Stuffed Sea Bass with Fennel, from Summer; Lobster Soufflé with Quail"s Egg and Brandy and Rich Braised Stuffed Hare, from Winter: this is luxurious and expensive cooking. Challenging, too. Michel Roux Jr. doesn"t give much in the way of guidance for the inexperienced but ambitious cook: the instructions are plain to the point of austerity but assume a considerable degree of skill and familiarity with the procedures of classic French cuisine. The results, though complex, are beautifully balanced. Of its kind, this food is perfect, representing an ideal of sophistication to which cooks can aspire. The book is elegantly (and robustly) produced and amply illustrated, adding to the pleasure of using it. --Robin Davidson, Amazon.co.uk