Gordon Ramsay, like Marco Pierre White before him, is the current holder of the position of Top Temperamental Chef in London and the embodiment of that paradox of haute cuisine, under which the most exquisite food emerges from the most furious white-hot hell of the professional kitchen. You wouldn"t know it from A Chef for All Seasons, Ramsay"s beautiful new collection. All is sweetness and light here. The word "pretty" is occasionally dropped. This may or may not be the result of the moderating influence of Ramsay"s co-author, Roz Denny. The theme of the collection is freshness and seasonality of ingredients, about which Ramsay is "passionate" (unlike, one must assume, all those other tin-opening top chefs). It is arranged by season, with Ramsay introducing each season by discussing his favourite foods, then showing his virtuosity in a set of recipes designed to show them at their best. The recipes are, as you would expect, supremely stylish, but cunningly designed to be simple enough in execution to tempt the home cook. Ramsay and Denny have, for once, actually achieved that rare balance between restaurant and domestic kitchen. Lots of fish recipes, the luxurious use of foie gras, the odd modish touch like crushed peas, desserts made with fashionably unfashionable fruits such as rhubarb and prunes, all make up a delectable set of recipes. --Robin Davidson