Zuppa: Soups From The Italian Countryside

"Everyday a Soup" is an old Garfagnano proverb. If a cookbook devoted solely to soups from just this section of Northern Tuscany sounds limited, a look at its recipes proves otherwise. There are soups rich with meat, hearty with grains, swimming with fish, graced with cream, or creamy with puréed vegetables. One of the chapters tells the story of farro, a pleasingly flavored wheatlike grain cultivated by the ancient Assyrians that is becoming popular with cooks who want to prepare whole grains. Anne Bianchi, an American, starts every chapter with stories of life in the Garfagnano, which she visited from her cooking school that was located in a 500-year-old farmhouse in Lucca. Recipes include End of Season Tomato Soup, Bread Soup (which is full of beans and served layered with stale bread), and Tiny Meatballs in Chicken Broth.